Dreaming Along the Canals of Tongli Water Town China

Tongli is often called an open-air museum of Ming and Qing architecture. The town was founded in the Song dynasty, over a thousand years ago, and was once known as Futu. Because it sits close to Lake Tai, you find familiar Jiangnan flavors here, like water-shield soup, whitefish from Lake Tai and crispy radish fritters, just as you do in Suzhou and Hangzhou. What sets Tongli apart are its local snacks and sweets, such as sock-sole crisp, a very thin, crunchy flatbread and fox nut cakes.

One thing that really stays with you is how clear the water is. Tongli lives up to its nickname as a little Eastern Venice. If you want to feel the local culture more deeply, hop on a wooden boat and drift through the narrow waterways. The town’s classic Jiangnan water town scenery has drawn many film and TV crews. There is even a stretch of stone pavement carved with the titles of shows shot here, well over a hundred.

Much of the charm gathers around the famous Three Bridges area. The bridges are called Jili, Taiping and Changqing. Locals traditionally walk all three whenever there is a baby’s first month celebration, a birthday for an elder or a wedding, hoping for peace, good fortune and long-lasting happiness. Visitors can follow the same route in the order of Taiping, Jili and Changqing. Under the bridges you may see cormorants set up for photos. In the past these birds also stood for a blessed marriage.

For a larger private garden space, head to Tuisi Garden, first built in the Guangxu period of the Qing dynasty. Its name comes from an old saying about being loyal in office and reflecting on your faults in retirement. It fits the original owner, who had been dismissed from his post. The grounds are not huge, but the layout, with residence in the west and garden in the east, is a classic example of a late Qing garden. Climb up to Lansheng Pavilion for a full view of the garden.

The old Chongben Hall has been turned into a water town wedding customs museum. Jiangsu has a playful side when it comes to marriage. During my time in Suzhou I ran into at least three marriage registration offices inside scenic spots, and this is one of Suzhou’s special registration offices. Maybe Suzhou’s high marriage rate has a little help from creative planning. Inside the museum you can see items used in traditional weddings along with bridal beds and curtains. The wall inset with gourd-shaped niches is part of Jiayin Hall.

Another spot worth a slow visit is Gengle Hall, filled with intricate root carvings. Pearl Pagoda is also fun to explore. When I went there was a special event going on. Despite the name, Pearl Pagoda is actually a garden. Its name comes from a famous love story in traditional opera. In the tale a poor scholar receives a family heirloom, the Pearl Pagoda, from a young woman to help him fund his studies. He eventually earns the top degree and returns to marry her.

As you step out of Pearl Pagoda you walk along a lane lined with fan makers. Some older craftspeople paint by hand right on the fan surface and let the finished work dry in the open air.

From Suzhou you can reach Tongli Water Town quite easily. Take Metro Line 4 to Tongli Station, leave from Exit 9 and transfer to the Wujiang T1 tram line, then get off at Tongli Ancient Town. If you are driving, set your navigation to the ground parking lot north of the old town.